UGG HOW A MINNOW PUT THE BOOT INTO A FASHION GIANT
They are as Australian as Rolf Harris, although until a few years
ago ugg boots were regarded as dowdy and worn only in the privacy of
people's homes. Then celebrities such as Gwyneth Pal-trow became fans,
sales rocketed, and an Australian cottage industry found itself in
conflict with the hard-nosed world of international fashion.
For decades, local traders used the name "ugg" to describe their
product, which - legend has it -dates back to the days when shearers
wrapped sheepskin around their feet to keep warm. Surfers, too,
recognised their merits, pulling on the boots when they emerged from
the surf.
Then in 2004, at the height of the ugg-boot craze, Australian
manufacturers - most of them small outfits with a handful of workers -
received letters from an American conglomerate, Deckers Outdoor
Corporation, instructing them to stop using the name or face
litigation.
Deckers, it emerged, had bought the trademark, and it did not want
competition, not even from the likes of Westhaven Industries, a
disabled services charity that employs 65 people at its factory in New
South Wales.
As disbelief turned to defiance, local companies banded together to
fight the legal challenge. It was a David and Goliath battle that, in a
world buffeted by the chill winds of globalisation, they seemed certain
to lose. But some stories have a happy ending, which is why Bronwyn and
Bruce McDougall, owners of Perth-based Uggs-n- Rugs, are pinching
themselves with delight today.
The McDougalls had appealed to the organisation that regulates
trademarks in Australia, claiming that ugg - originally an abbreviation
of ugly, so it is believed - was a generic term. Yesterday they
received the news that the regulator, IP Australia, agreed. The name is
to be removed from the register of trademarks. Local manufacturers can
once again call their boots uggs.
Mrs McDougall said she and her husband were thrilled. "This is a moral victory for all Australians," she said.
There was elation, too, in the town of Maitland, 100 miles north of
Sydney, where the Mortel family has been producing ugg boots for nearly
50 years. Frank Mortel, now 73, set up a tiny sheepskin factory after
emigrating from Holland in 1958, bringing with him a few sewing
machines.
Descended from six generations of orthopaedic boot mak ers, he made
hisfirstpairof fur-lined slippers for his wife, Rita, who had
complained of cold feet. He then began to manufacture the slippers and
boots commercially. "We called them uggs from the start," said Mr
Mortel, who believes that Deckers was "trying to frighten people off".
His son, Tony, who runs the family's factory, turning out 16,000
pairs of fur-lined boots a year, agrees. "People around the world know
them as uggs," he says.
So how did a quintessentially Australian product end up being
hijacked by a corporation based in Santa Barbara, California? To
understand it, you have to go back 35 years.
In 1971, a local surf champion, Shane Steadman, decided to
capitalise on the popularity of uggs among Australian and visiting US
wave riders. He began sell-ingthe boots and registered the name. Then
in 1979, Brian Smith, another Australian surfer with a sharp business
eye, went to New York with a few pairs in his rucksack. He set up a
company, Ugg Holdings Inc, registered the Ugg trademark in 25 countries
and sold out to Deckers in 1995.
As far as the American company was concerned, it now owned the ugg
boot, and in 1999 it sent out a flurry of warning letters to Australian
traders. It did not, however, follow them up. According to Middletons,
the Melbourne law firm that represents Deckers, it was only when the
Australians began selling uggs over the internet to meet soaring
international demand that it felt obliged to crack down.
In the meantime, of course, uggs had made the transition from
fashion crime to fashion icon. They were being seen on the streets of
Paris and Beverly Hills, worn by the likes of Kate Moss, Madonna and
Pamela Anderson. Waiting lists swelled as consumers clamoured for a
pair. No longer made just in boring styles and only in tan, they were
now being produced in pale pink, denim and lavender, some of them
embroidered, others trimmed with lace.
With supply unable to meet demand, many shoppers looked online, and
found the likes of Uggs-n-Rugs and Blue Mountains Ugg Boots. That was
anathema to Deckers, which marketed the boots through the UGG Australia
brand.
In early 2004, in the middle of the European winter, Deckers sent
letters to 20 Australian firms, informing them that it owned all rights
to Ugg and ordering them to stop using it.
Tony Mortel "just laughed... t thought they were crazy. I threw it
in the bin". But soon afterwards, at the instigation of Deckers,
Mor-tels Sheepskin Factory was ejected from eBay, the internet auction
site where it had been selling uggs to American shoppers. It was
ordered by Icann, the internet regulatory body, to stop using ugg in
its domain name.
Mr Mortel was furious. The demand for him to renounce the ugg name,
without compensation, amounted to "borderline monopolisation", he says.
At Westhaven Industries, based in Dubbo, NSW, the general manager,
Gordon Tindall, was similarly outraged. Uggs were the charity's most
profitable product and, without them, the business would not survive.
West-haven employs the likes of Dougie Stewart, who has been making the
boots for 30 years.
In the Blue Mountains, west of Sydney, Brian Iverson, whose family
has made uggs for three generations, was horrified by the letter. "Uggs
are as Australian as the Harbour Bridge," he says.
The manufacturers decided to unite under the banner of the Ugg Boot
Footwear Association, and set up a fighting fund. The thrust of their
argument was that Brian Smith, the surfer, was awarded the trademarks
in error, because ugg was a generic term, meaning a flat- heeled,
pull-on sheepskin boot.
Mr Tindall believes that ugg is "as generic as meat pie or tomato
sauce", and says of Deckers: "It's like Ford Motor Company claiming
that they own the word 'sedan'." Mr Iverson uses a similar metaphor.
"It's like saying you can't call a car a car."
The Australian firms decided to try to have the trademarks
rescinded, in Australia at least. Their only other option was to give
up and go under - for without the name ugg, they believed, they could
not sell their boots.
Now they have been vindicated by the trademark body's decision. Ian
Thompson, the officer who heard the case, said "the evidence
overwhelmingly supports the proposition that the terms (ugg, ugh and ug
boots) are interchangeably used to describe a specific style of
sheepskin boot and are the first and most natural way in which to
describe these goods".
The ruling may be challenged by Deckers, and applies only to
Australia. The company still owns the trademark in other jurisdictions
including the US, which means that Australian manufacturers are unable
to sell in that country.
David Stewart, lawyer for the McDougalls, said it was possible that
the decision would have "some sort of domino effect". Past attempts to
have the trademark removed from the US register had failed because the
courts had not been convinced that ugg was a generic term in Australia,
he said. A future challenge might be more successful.
Deckers did not react to yesterday's ruling. But in the past its
lawyers, Middletons, have objected to the portrayal of it as "some big,
bad, aggressive American company that likes squashing small
businesses". Tony Watson, a Middletons partner, said it was Deckers
that had transformed the boots into a high-fashion item, spending $7m
(pounds 4m) on marketing and sending them to celebrities such as Oprah
Winfrey. It was naturally reluctant to see others reaping the benefit.
But, according to Mr Mortel, Australian manufacturers worked hard
for decades to market uggs, onlytoseethe name appropriated. His firm
and others had long been exporting to the US and elsewhere, he said.
"Between us, we must have spent far more than Deckers on marketing."
The main challenge now facing Deckers may not be the trademark
decision, which gives local companies free rein to sell ugg boots
within Australia. It may be the fact that demand for ugg boots is
drying up, as the fickle fashion world looks for the next footwear
trend.
The Wall StreetJournal reported last month that a Los Angeles
gossip website, Defamer.com, had condemned "the human rights violation
known as 'Uggboots'" as well as the "fuzzy-footed fashion slaves who
wore them".
According to the newspaper, Deckers is trying to refuel demand by
diversifying. It is producing Ugg boots that are studded, embroidered
and covered in Gore-Tex. It is also making baby Ugg boots, as well as
slippers, clogs and moccasins, and has launched lines of coats,
scarves, gloves, hats and sheepskin-lined handbags.
But the must-have boot is no longer an ugg. It is a luxury
sheepskin boot made by another Australian firm, Love From Australia,
and worn by Sienna Miller, the actress. Ugg-wearers beware Ugg is'as generic as meat pie or tomato sauce.
It's like Ford Motor Company claiming they own the word sedan'
Ugg advocates include, from left, Sienna Miller' Kate Moss' Sarah Jessica Parker, Padma Rushdie and Jennifer Ellison
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